Nobles Well-Watered Garden

Spring to Life

2009-03-04T14:14:00.001-08:00

Container plants full of bulbs emerging with blossoms at different intervals of time will surely make a statement as the start of the gardening season approaches. What comes to mind when you think of plants that grow from bulbs? If you said, tulip, daffodils, crocus, and hyacinths, then you’re correct. A true definition of a bulb is a seed which resembles an onion, with residual roots, a small stem portion, and lots of leaves packed closely together. Other plants, amaryllis, crinum, and rain lilies, are really stems, not bulbs. Definitions for corms, tubers, tuberous roots, and rhizomes as follows:
● Corms: Tight, compressed, flattened, stems. Gladiolus is a corm having a central bud with smaller buds around the stem.
● Tubers: Buds can be found on the stem of caladiums with a central bud and many smaller buds. Leatherlike tuber is the skin.
● Tuberous roots: Dahlias have swollen, fleshy, usually underground roots where buds develop into new plants such as the sweet potato at the stem end.
● Rhizomes: Thickened horizontal stems grow plants, (canna, calla lily and daylily) some from the surface of the soil, while others form slightly underground.
Now we’ve established names and types of bulbs. You can now choose any type of container from terra-cotta, wooden, plastic, to metal, making sure there is good drainage. Try stylish containers suited for your personality, such as a bucket, box, baskets or a vintage treasure. Soil composition is very important, so I suggest a good organic potting mixture to advance the growth with just the right amount of water.
Fertilizing Tips:
● Scatter the fertilizer over the surface of the soil.
● Keep the granules away from the foliage to prevent burns.
● It’s fine to start the feeding near the base of the bulbs, but do not allow it to accumulate next to the green stems.
● Water immediately after the feeding.
Manures and slow-release products can be substituted for general garden fertilizers.
Bonemeal can be used as part of the feeding, but it’s not a complete fertilizer product.
Look for creativity of container bulb planting next week! For other articles please go to www.jacksoncountytimes.net and click on my business card. Till next time, Grace and Peace be multiplied to you, Pamela.

The Whimsical Viola 2/26/09

2009-02-25T15:03:00.001-08:00

This time of year boosts expectancy for me as the "Master Gardener" shows off His mass palette of colorful buds and blossoms accented with the many trees and shrubs which are beginning to take form. We can surely be ever so grateful for the bountiful, rich supply of plants that are sure to bring us great delight!
So, let me introduce to you the incredible viola. The violas, pansies and almost all violets are the same, botanically speaking, belonging to the genus Viola. The zone you are in will determine whether these flowers are perennials or annuals. Each plant comes in a vast array of bright colors which are sure to meet your fancy. My choice is the viola as they require very little maintenance keeping their color and shape all season requiring no deadheading with continued blooming. On the other hand the pansy requires much more maintenance in deadheading as they put all their energy into one big long-stemmed bloom and then start looking scraggly if they’re not plucked off. Normally violas are used for border or edgings in your flower beds, however, try using them in containers to create winter color in a terra-cotta pot or a window basket.
Violas thrive in sun to partial shade, growing to 6-8 inches high and 8 inches across. To keep your plants healthy you need to start with good soil. Terra-cotta pots will require sand or wood chips at the bottom to help drain off excess water, then fill with a light potting mix, being sure there is adequate drainage. It is important to use the right mulch such as straw or leaf mulch which will keep the roots insulated and will prevent erosion.
Creating visual impact is essential, so let me give you some ideas to add to the viola. Try a Leyland cypress, dwarf arborvitae and English ivy in a window box and for the terra-cotta container, a Spanish lavender and heuchera. For a culinary treat add herbs such as rosemary and a common sage.
Tip: Sprinkle blood meal in the soil. The blood meal gives a boost of nitrogen immediately which also adds minerals.
Till next time, Grace and Peace be multiplied to you.
-Pamela

It is "Pruning Time"

2009-01-28T14:37:00.000-08:00

BY Pamela Nobles

Glancing around the outdoors where many of my plants have remained during the cold winter season lets me know that it is now time for pruning. When temperatures begin to plummet below freezing for an extended period of time, even the covering with freeze cloths doesn’t always help when the fierce winds blow. Even so, it can become a good thing, depending upon how you look at the situation.
Pruning your various plants will vary in scope. It’s a way of removing the old to bring on the new. Plants will bear much fruit when this technique is applied to bring forth new stems and buds which will make them spectacular in the spring. The simplicity of pruning plants is the same for "in ground" plants as it is for "in container" plants. Pruning maintains the health of plants, production of flowers or fruit, growth direction and undesirable growth removal.
Let me give you several situations I have faced which might help you. For instance several pots of the Asparagus sprengeri ferns had many new fronds* that were coming out every where, due to the warm weather. Knowing the type of fern made it easy for me to prune, due to its invasive growth. In fact I’ve decided to cut them all back, with a two-fold reasoning; easier to divide, and production multiplies to share.
Having worked with several Crepe myrtles, it’s amazing to me how resilient these shrubs can be. However, they too need pruning. They will bloom on new wood, so prune them late winter or early spring to increase next summer’s flower production. Remove side branches on trunks up to 4-5 ft. and inner branches reveal attractive trunks. After doing some research on pruning the crepe myrtles I was shocked (to say the least) at the following statement after I had already committed this crime! It reads as follows:
Don’t Commit "Crepe Murder"
Don’t chop your large crepe myrtles down to ugly stubs each spring just because your neighbors do.
This ruins the natural form and encourages the growth of spindly, whip like branches that are too weak to hold up the flowers.
To reduce a crepe myrtle use hand pruners or loppers to shorten the topmost branches by 2-3ft. in late winter, always cutting back to a side branch or bud. For branches more than 2 in. thick, always cut back to the trunk. Don’t leave big ugly stubs.
Till next time, Grace and Peace be multiplied to you, Pamela
*See Spectacular Ferns Pt. II, October 23, 2008 at www.jacksoncountytimes.net

Distinctive Houseplants 1/22/09

2009-01-22T08:13:00.000-08:00

By Pamela Nobles

If you want to add depth to any empty space in your home, then purchase a houseplant that best suits your personality. I’m sure you’ve heard the statement, "I don’t have a green thumb"! That’s ludicrous; anyone can do anything they set their heart to. With a little guidance and instruction choosing a plant to accentuate your home will be exciting and rewarding to say the least. You’ll be fascinated with the many varieties available that will brighten and enhance any room of your home…. So let’s get started.
The possibilities are endless. Choosing a plant that is conducive to the climate where it will be displayed is imperative to its livelihood. For instance displaying one or several on a windowsill in your kitchen or in a bathroom where there is high humidity with bright light, your choice might be any of the following; Peperomia, Ferns, Ivy Hedera helix (different varieties), Fittonia, Hypoestes, or Ficus. Any one of these plants would also be appropriate, with some misting to add humidity, on coffee tables, end tables, dressers or maybe on your dining room table. Consider a floor plant in any room of your home. I would suggest Split-leaf Philodendrons, Ferns, Dieffenbachia, Crotons, Palms or a Norfolk Island Pine. Let’s not leave out herbs, as they can thrive where there is bright light, even when it’s artificial light.
The houseplants mentioned above do require some attention, with little care and watering on a weekly basis. Plants purchased from area nurseries have been fertilized in green houses so they will not need to be fertilized for several months.
If you may have failed in the past, this is a new day, so look beyond the commonplace. Step out and let plants become a stimulating hobby that is sure to become a pleasure.
It would be an honor for me to help you make the right choices, so feel free to call me at 592-2522. Till next time, Grace and Peace be multiplied to you, Pamela.
Tip of the week: Camellias are in full bloom! Cut a stem or two for that special nook where you can enjoy their beauty much longer. Ask a kind neighbor for a cutting if you don’t have one in your yard.

The Exquisite Camellia 1/8/09

2009-01-07T12:17:00.001-08:00

I’ve recently had the privilege of visiting with Glen’s sister, Janice Basford, over the holidays. Upon my arrival, a Camellia shrub captured my eye in her front yard that was decorated with exquisite buds and blossoms. I was in awe of this delicate flower and immediately wanted to have a few cuttings for several of my vases. Without hesitation, Janice so graciously allowed me to cut all I wanted.
From that special moment, it was for sure I would have one planted in my yard soon. So from there I have done some extensive research on these magnificent shrubs to pass on to my readers, although, I would encourage you to also explore the many facets of this beautiful plant.
Camellias were first introduced from Asia to the West in the early 18th Century by a Jesuit priest, Georg Josef Kamel, from whose name the camellia is derived. During the 19th Century, camellias blossoms were prized and displayed in elaborate crystal bowls throughout the South as this is the heart of camellia country. Alabama’s state flower is the Camellia japonica.
There are more than 3,000 named species and cultivars that exist in a spectacular range of colors, forms and sizes. Since the blooms of Camellia japonica and Camellia sasanqua and their hybrids are so attractive, both of these families are popular for landscapes. There are even fragrant varieties that bloom from fall to early spring growing outdoors, as well as, indoors in the right environment. With the new introduction of the Ice Angels series, even cold climates of Zone 6 where cold hardy camellias are available can be enjoyed to minus 10 degrees.
Growing Tips: In landscapes, Camellias thrive in partial to filtered shade and fast-draining soil, rich in organic material, so water does not accumulate in their root zones. To keep the roots cool, always layer them with 2 inches of thick mulch. Trunk base of plant must never be below soil line. After plants are established, they can survive—even thrive—on fairly little supplemental moisture. Camellias are free from most insect pests, but occasionally mites can attack. They require little fertilizer (acidic plant food).
Til next time, grace and peace be multiplied to you in the coming year 2009! For other articles and interesting information, go to the webpage for the Jackson County Times. With a grateful heart, Pamela.

Christmas Cactus

2008-12-02T19:25:00.000-08:00

Place the cactus in a sunny location while indoors and if outdoors during the summer, find a place that has a sun/shade mix to prevent the plant from getting burned.

Watering this type of cactus is sometimes a problem because people tend to treat these the same as they would a regular desert cactus. This type needs more water than one of the other types of cactus. The other thing that happens is people over water and then causes the plant to begin rotting at the roots. The best way to be sure your plant is getting just the right amount of water is to wait until the soil is dry on the top and still a bit moist toward the bottom. Then water the plant until the soil is saturated. Drain off any excess water that accumulates on the bottom. Then do not water again until the top half of the soil feels dry to the touch again.

Well-drained soil is very important that is why you should purchase potting soil that is designed for cacti. If you can't find any that is made for cactus you can mix two parts regular potting soil with one part sand. In order to insure your cactus will bloom in time for Christmas, you will need to give the cactus a rest period so you will want to cut back on the watering leaving the soil only partly moist. Allow at least 14 hours of darkness for the plant until the buds begin to form. Once the bud form they can take from 10 to 12 weeks to fully bloom stop watering the plant beginning in October then begin watering again in November. Make sure the air has enough humidity so the buds don't dry up and fall off. After the blooms fall off, you can prune your cactus so that it bushes out instead of becoming vine-like and unmanageable. You'll also find that the cactus will bloom better next year afterward.

When new growth appears in the spring, put a diluted solution of liquid fertilizer 2 to 3 weeks after the start of the new growth. The cactus should be repotted every 2 to 3 years depending on how depleted the soil is. Repotting should be done in the spring, but if the plant is at risk of dying because of its potting condition, then repotting can be done anytime of the year as needed.

While the poinsettia remains the most popular of the holiday plants, a healthy Christmas cactus in full bloom is a great gift idea for that special gardener.

Amaryllis

2008-11-25T22:32:00.000-08:00

Preparation for Planting
The base and roots of the bulb should be placed in lukewarm water for a few hours. Remember, if you cannot plant the bulbs immediately after receiving them; store them at a cool temperature between 40-50 degrees F.

Planting
Plant bulbs in nutritious potting compost, many are available pre-mixed. Plant the bulb up to its neck in the potting compost, being careful not to damage the roots. Press the soil down firmly to set the bulb securely in place after planting.

Placement and Watering
Plant the bulb, or place the potted bulb in a warm place with direct light since heat is necessary for the development of the stems. The ideal temperature is 68 to 70 degrees F. Water sparingly until the stem appears, then, as the bud and leaves appear, gradually water more. At this point, the stem will grow rapidly and flowers will develop after it has reached full growth.

Flowering Period
Bulbs will flower in 7-10 weeks as a general rule. In winter the flowering time will be longer than in spring. Set up your planting schedule between October and April with this in mind. To achieve continuous bloom, plant at intervals of 2 weeks for stunning color in your home or garden.

Bulb Storage

Clean the bulb and place it in a cool (40-50 deg. F), dark place such as the crisper of your refrigerator for a minimum of 6 weeks. Caution: Do not store amaryllis bulbs in a refrigerator that contains apples, this will sterilize the bulbs. Store the bulbs for a minimum of 6 weeks. Plant Again. After 6 weeks you may remove bulbs whenever you would like to plant them. Plant bulbs 8 weeks before you would like them to bloom.

Mums the Word!

2008-11-14T09:59:00.000-08:00

This has become my favorite time of year and with it comes an expectancy of colorful displays of Chrysanthemums that can be seen everywhere. I’m reminiscent of the many road trips that I’d take with my sister as we would search out the most unique and quaint garden shops to purchase just the right color, size and shape for our décor. Plant breeders have created numerous mums that are more compact, blooming more heavily, and have longer-lasting flowers than their predecessors. Many bloom quite early, stretching the season from midsummer to late fall.

Mums are usually found for sale in full bloom in early September, ready to be planted for instant color in flowerbeds and pots that will surely enhance your landscape. Be creative by mixing them with existing plants, such as, Autumn Joy sedum, purple aster or a Mexican bush sage. Plant them alongside the Silver King Artemisia, bright yellow goldenrod or blend them with the narrow-leaf zinnia, lamb’s ear, or marigolds.

Ideally mums can brighten dim areas of the garden which add color to attract attention. Place them in front of a dark background, such as evergreens or a stone wall, to increase the visibility of the blooms. With the many attractive containers available, place them along a sidewalk, at your entry, front or back door (remember the old saying, ‘back door guests are always welcome’). The cheerful blossom will last for weeks.

Whatever Chrysanthemums you choose to buy, you will find, many bloom much earlier or later in years following the season you plant them. This is because hybrid mums produced in a greenhouse are often timed to bloom at a specific time, in order to appear attractive to shoppers. Make sure the plants are not root bound when you buy them in the fall. The best way to select your mums would be when the bud is not fully opened, assuring flowering that will last!.

Mums require full sun, with light, well drained soil, that grow to heights from 1 to 3 feet. Check the soil frequently for watering. You can keep many mums blooming longer by pinching the old blooms as soon as they fade, especially in this area where the fall is very long and mild. If you choose to keep them in pots, you may plant them in the garden after they have bloomed. After a hard freeze, cut the top growth back to the ground and cover plants with a 2 to 3 inch layer of pine straw, shredded bark, or mulch.

Till next time, Grace and Peace be multiplied to you during this Holiday Season! Pamela.

The “ Dazzling” Crotons

2008-11-07T10:51:00.000-08:00

I have found over the years when the temperatures begin to spiral downward and the leaves start to fall, one of the most appealing and striking plants for your entry way or even on that harvest scene in your front yard is the Croton (Codiaeum). These luscious plants have glossy leaves that will dazzle you with an array of bold, vivid colors of reds, oranges, and yellows that blend with swirls, blotches, and splashes of color that are sure to make a statement. This hardy plant is absolutely incredible and is a showstopper that will transform your home during this season of Harvest! The leaves can grow up to 6 inches wide and can often become as much as a foot long. Some varieties have wavy leaves, while others are narrower with the leaves shaped like an oak leaf. Also the leaves can be wrinkly and curled.

Crotons are native to tropical Malaysia, southern Asia and the Pacific Islands and are evergreen shrubs. These plants require lots of light and high humidity, so for this area when outdoors, they will obviously thrive. Mixing these plants with other spillers such as, Alternanthera, Creeping Jenny, Boston fern, or even an herb brought me a great deal of pleasure as I’d experiment by moving them to different locations.

I found if I put one in an area where there was lots of direct sunlight for 4 to 5 hours a day the leaves would be much more vivid with color. However, if placed in a more shady location the leaves would stay much greener. Do not over water these plants as the leaves will eventually wilt and drop.

As I mentioned above, when choosing to add spillers, make sure that the plants require the same amount of watering and of course bright light. Temperatures fluctuate in this area, so with that as the air begins to fall below 60 degrees, either cover them or bring them indoors where there is again lots of bright light, keeping them misted regularly. Feed with a water-soluble liquid fertilizer during the spring and summer, but allow them to rest during fall and winter seasons. Let me give you a tip, too much nitrogen will dull the dramatic color hues of the leaves.

Any questions, feel free to call me at 592-2522 or go online to the Jackson County Times website and click on the business card for Nobles’ Well-Watered Garden for other articles. Till next time, Grace and Peace be multiplied to you, Pamela.

Spectacular Ferns Part II

2008-10-22T14:02:00.001-07:00

10/24/08
By Pamela Nobles

Let me introduce the easiest of ferns to grow, the Asparagus Fern or some say Asparagus sprengeri. In my last article, I shared that one of the ferns will blossom, this is it! This is not a true fern, but belongs to the lily family and produces seeds rather than spores and one of the easiest ferns to grow whether in your outdoor beds or in one of your favorite containers in or outdoors. The fronds will sometimes reach lengths of 5 feet long that have little spines (thorns) under the foliage with blossoms giving way late in the summer to green berries then ultimately ripening to red in the fall. Fronds are light and airy that is sure to attract the eye of the beholder being drawn to these luxurious ferns. In my opinion, they are most beautiful in pedestal containers that certainly add texture to that special room of your home. Setting one in a bathroom on a wrought iron stand would be awesome given the fact that they thrive in high humidity.
When planted outdoors they can become backdrops to many other flowering plants, such as caladiums, coleus, impatiens, and many more. However, be ready for their invasive growth. Be sure to divide them, as they will outgrow that special container. Here is a suggestion when dividing them (which can be any time of the year). Plant them in a pot for a gift for the holidays wrapped in any type of fabric or in a basket that would suit that special friends home.
The Asparagus ferns not only attract birds, due to those red berries, but if you have pets, parts of the plants are poisonous if ingested.
For those of you that are looking for fillers for your arrangements, go and cut away as they will reproduce in no time. Give them bright light, watering once a week, maybe more in the summer season and watch them grow with fervor.
Till next time, Grace and Peace be multiplied to you and yours! Pamela

Do You Want A Spectacular Fern?

2008-10-09T09:32:00.000-07:00

10/9/08
By Pamela Nobles

These luscious plants have graced our homes for many years. Ferns were quite the popular item in the most luxurious homes of the Victorian Era. I was simply awestruck as a young woman as I watched movies from that era where the homes were filled with ferns in atriums, conservatories, greenhouses and porches. Many were hanging from a beam in one of those breathtaking mansions, or you might see one sitting on a wooden pedestal or a concrete figurine. In my earlier years in Jacksonville, Florida, my mother was a member of the Garden Circle and many times would escort her to her friends homes that were simply breathtaking and the first thing I would notice was the landscaping with ferns outdoors and indoors.
Ferns are grown mainly for their grace and beauty of their fronds; however, most do not have flowers. I would have to say that one of the most popular is the Boston Fern. Memories of driving to my favorite garden center with my sister, Jacque was definitely the highlight of Spring that filled us with great anticipation to purchasing just the right fern for our porches. There are so many varieties for you to choose. Just to whet your appetite, here are the names of a few; Maidenhair Fern (Australian or American), Indian Holly fern, Mother Fern, Lady Fern, Lady in Red Fern, Ghost Fern, Painted Ferns, Tree Ferns, Wood Ferns, Pony Tail Fern, Sword Tooth Fern, Rabbits Foot Fern and even the Asparagus Fern.
The majority of ferns will thrive in shade or partial shade. In this region, we have just the right ingredients to grow ferns - lots of moisture and high humidity. To grow them indoors requires these two factors, however, many homes have air-conditioning systems, as well as heating that can rob them of needed conditions. If you want ferns to thrive indoors, you will have to choose those ferns that are conducive to the environment of the humidity and moisture that is so vital.
Next week I will continue in more depth on these illustrious plants. Feel free to contact me at 592-2522. Till next time, Grace and Peace be multiplied to you and yours. Pamela

The Versatile Impatiens

2008-09-26T21:31:00.000-07:00

By: Pamela Nobles

9/25/08

With the change of the seasons, one of the most tropical hybrids that are low maintenance with nonstop blooming from spring until the first frost, is the Impatiens group. These luscious plants come in more than 15 different colors-from shimmering whites and pale pinks to vivid purples and bright oranges. They are by far America’s best-selling bedding plants. There are so many hybrids and varieties with double blossoms that it is hard to believe that I have not mentioned them previously in my writings. So, let me share with you some fascinating thoughts about these awesome plants. To beginner gardeners, planting impatiens can be a great confidence builder as they are inexpensive transplants which when set out in spring and summer can grow to be knee-high mounds of showy flowers in a virtual rainbow of colors. They require little care and make excellent container plants. Placed in pots, they can brighten an entrance, deck, or patio. Any impatiens becomes brilliant waves of color in window boxes, and hanging baskets as they cascade over the edges. Because they are quite showy plants, why not select the white blossoms to plant by themselves as they will enhance those high-traffic areas where they may be enjoyed during the day and then at night, their flowers will glow like little stars. Impatiens are known as shade lovers, even so, traditional impatiens can take some sun when given enough water. Their stems are liquid-filled vessels, and these plants wilt when low on water, making it easy to tell when they need a drink. The best way to keep these plants happy and stress free is to maintain evenly moist soil at all times. Many times, I have pinched the stems back 5 to 6 inches to find in no time they have doubled in size. Another demonstration of their virility is when I’ve pinched them, I have accidentally dropped some clippings in nearby flowerbeds by accident and found them growing profusely. Surprisingly have even found them in the cracks of my front porch. New Guinea Hybrids will tolerate bright light, and unlike the traditional kind, they are grown more for their colorful dark variegated foliage, bigger cheerful blooms and the ability to tolerate more sun. Large lance-shaped leaves may be bronze, purple, or green and splashed with cream, white, yellow, or red. Helpful Tip – Shade or partial shade, moist soil, mulching, feeding every two weeks with a 20-20-20 fertilizer.

Til next time, blessings be multiplied to you, Pamela.

Wire Hanging Baskets Continued from Last week

2008-09-26T21:30:00.001-07:00

By: Pamela Nobles
8/14/08

Continuing from last week, before rushing out to purchase these wrought-iron hanging baskets, you’ll want to determine the size for spacing in the area you choose to hang it. And, too, remember that only a large container, generally 16 inches in diameter or more, can readily sustain a large and dramatic collection of plants. Be careful not to overwhelm smaller baskets with a nursery cart full of plants which is a very common failing and is very easy to do! Containers less than 14 inches in diameter should only host a handful of your favorites. Maybe two or three of the same variety, however; using different types will enhance your container. To provide texture and visual contrast you might want to include some trailing foliage plants, like ivy or asparagus fern. Even smaller pots might only support a single plant, so pick something exuberant and colorful. For example, by combining a long-blooming period variety with a cascading form, such as variegated ivy geraniums or trailing verbenas, like the aptly named ‘Babylon’ variety creates a great display. For larger containers, select a "portfolio" of plants with similar requirements for sun, moisture, and feeding. Your hanging basket is a community, and no one plant should dominate the others or exhaust all of the water and nutrients. Shady locations should get shade-loving plants, sunny site, sun-lovers. And think of your hanging garden as a living floral arrangement. Depending on your taste and personality, you might choose a harmonious grouping of plants, such as soothing lavender and purple, blended with vines and foliage of green and silver. Or you might like the energy of contrasting a variety of hot, bright colors bursting out in all directions, and uniting the red, orange, yellow, and white blooms with gold, grey, and green foliage plants, such as the variegated Swedish ivy, and pineapple mint, or lacy leaves of Artemisia. The arrangement you ultimately decide on should also favor blends of textures and growth habits, such as taller geraniums and salvias, mounding petunias, annual vincas, begonias, and cascading multi-hued million bells, blush-purple Scaevola, or tried-and-true lobelia and sweet alyssum. You may also choose coleus and caladiums, since they come in such wide variety of colors. For any questions, feel free to contact me at 592-2522 and I will gladly assist you. Til’ next time! Be blessed, Pamela

Wire Hanging Baskets

2008-09-26T21:28:00.000-07:00

By: Pamela Nobles

7/31/08

Hanging baskets have come a long way since the plastic potted geraniums which were traditionally sold outside supermarkets. Many of the exclusive garden centers now display wrought-iron or light and elegant moss-filled wire baskets filled with foliage plants that are absolutely breathtaking. Surely you have said to yourself, " I wish I could do that". Well, you can. Choosing your style of hanging garden will depend on your location and desired effect. They can often be used effectively even in a very small space. For some people their choice is plastic, however, nothing compares with the natural beauty of baskets filled with moss or, more commonly coir-fiber. Environmentally, they are made from recycled coco fibers, rather than sphagnum moss, which are sometimes mined from sensitive bog areas. Fiber and moss liners look great, but they do dry out quickly. There is a new option, though, that is called capillary matting. This material is sold by the roll and can be easily cut to fit inside your containers. These highly absorbent mats can store and release water to root systems for days. Manufacturers suggest that they might even reduce watering requirements by up to 80 percent. Your planting mix should be customized for these types of hanging baskets, being both lightweight and porous to provide good drainage and aeration, while retaining moisture. Some container mixes are actually soil-less, and blend together peat moss or sphagnum moss, sand, vermiculite and/or perlite, and often include slow-release fertilizers. To one of these mixes you might consider adding one of the water-absorbent gels produced from polymerized potassium. These crystals are touted to act as reservoirs for water, holding up to 200 times their weight in water.

Will continue next week on this topic. ‘Til next time! Be blessed, Pamela.

Container Gardening Maintenance

2008-09-26T19:47:00.001-07:00

By: Pamela Nobles
7/17/08

After many hours of preparation and gathering plants together for that container, it is essential to maintain them. The end results can be breathtaking and quite showy. After planting and watering them all each day, you might say " that’s it". Well, that is far from reality as the scorching heat along with humidity and the winds of the summer play heavily on the plants, as by now I’m sure you’ve noticed. The best way to care for a container garden is to water often and feed freely. Containers dry out quickly, and water requirements for plants in pots are different from those in the ground as I’ve mentioned before in previous articles. On hot sunny days, you may have to water twice. A rule of thumb is to test the soil by inserting your pointer finger up to the second knuckle, whereby, if the soil feels dry, it needs water. Remember that no matter what kind of potting soil you use, constant watering will leach all the nutrients out of it. Plants need to be nourished with nitrogen, potassium and phosphorous. In my containers, back in the spring, I used a timed released granule fertilizer. However, even that will not last through summer. In the latter part of May I begin to fertilize every week outdoors and every other week indoors with a water-soluble fertilizer. These are bottled fertilizers that are quite simple to use by attaching them to your garden hose. It is very rewarding to watch the transformation as your plants are revitalized within a few days. Next comes the deadheading or pruning which is essential for many of your plants, particularly the Coleus, Impatiens, Sweet potato vines and verbenas. The first two varieties can grow quite tall and leggy, so pruning will enhance their growth towards becoming fuller and showy. The Impatiens and Verbenas will produce more blossoms if pruned. Sweet potato vines are rapid growers and will need to be trimmed, especially when in hanging baskets or pots. By the way, when the sweet potato vine is cut, you may toss them in a flower bed where there is ample mulch and watch these cuttings grow. Till next time, May Grace and Peace be multiplied to you, Pamela.

Spillers, Thrillers and Fillers Continued from last week....

2008-09-26T19:41:00.000-07:00

By: Pamela Nobles
7/3/08

Several plants come to mind when making your next selection for one of your containers. The first thriller is the Strobilanthes dyerianus. Its common name is the Persian Shield. It is a native shrub-like plant from Burma with striking silver-coated, variegated purple leaves. The leaves are broadly oval, pointed, 6 to 8 inches long. This plant will produce pale violet tubular flowers in the summer, but what is so remarkable are the rich, showy color tones that will cause you to take a second glance. It requires full to partial sun for this region with regular watering. The Persian Shield looks best with pinks, blues, and purples, such as the Scaevola, Dusty Miller, Helichrysum, or you might add a Licorice Plant, an ‘Escargot’ rex begonia, and a striking Coleus . Another plant would be a Bacopa that does best in full sun to partial shade. It is finely textured, ideal for the edge of the pot, as it is a trailer to 12 inches and 6 inches tall. It produces clouds of tiny blossoms, which will flower nonstop. Some breeds are yielding more low-maintenance selections. The Cannas have become increasingly popular over the years in containers boasting brilliant bold colors with the dramatic blossoms and foliage such as Tropicana Black (chocolate-colored tropical leaves); Pretoria (lime-green striped leaves) and many others. Cannas are perennials that require full sun to partial shade, plenty of water, fast growing and abundant fertilizing that are among the best thrillers your money can buy. Some dwarf varieties are excellent for your containers where most grow 5 to 6 feet tall. Center cannas in a container then add three or four plants, such as Coleus, Dichondra, Sweet Potato vine, Calibrachoa, or Scaevola. Tip of the week: Container plants purchased from your area nurseries have come from greenhouses conducive to that environment. They have been potted with fertilizer that should last up to 2 months, so with that in mind, do not fertilize for at least 4 to 6 weeks. General care such as size, watering, pruning, light exposure, etc. is usually not given, so be wise to get the names before leaving. Till’ next week….Grace and Peace be multiplied to you, Pamela.Continued from last week.... Several plants come to mind when making your next selection for one of your containers. The first thriller is the Strobilanthes dyerianus. Its common name is the Persian Shield. It is a native shrub-like plant from Burma with striking silver-coated, variegated purple leaves. The leaves are broadly oval, pointed, 6 to 8 inches long. This plant will produce pale violet tubular flowers in the summer, but what is so remarkable are the rich, showy color tones that will cause you to take a second glance. It requires full to partial sun for this region with regular watering. The Persian Shield looks best with pinks, blues, and purples, such as the Scaevola, Dusty Miller, Helichrysum, or you might add a Licorice Plant, an ‘Escargot’ rex begonia, and a striking Coleus . Another plant would be a Bacopa that does best in full sun to partial shade. It is finely textured, ideal for the edge of the pot, as it is a trailer to 12 inches and 6 inches tall. It produces clouds of tiny blossoms, which will flower nonstop. Some breeds are yielding more low-maintenance selections. The Cannas have become increasingly popular over the years in containers boasting brilliant bold colors with the dramatic blossoms and foliage such as Tropicana Black (chocolate-colored tropical leaves); Pretoria (lime-green striped leaves) and many others. Cannas are perennials that require full sun to partial shade, plenty of water, fast growing and abundant fertilizing that are among the best thrillers your money can buy. Some dwarf varieties are excellent for your containers where most grow 5 to 6 feet tall. Center cannas in a container then add three or four plants, such as Coleus, Dichondra, Sweet Potato vine, Calibrachoa, or Scaevola. Tip of the week: Container plants purchased from your area nurseries have come from greenhouses conducive to that environment. They have been potted with fertilizer that should last up to 2 months, so with that in mind, do not fertilize for at least 4 to 6 weeks. General care such as size, watering, pruning, light exposure, etc. is usually not given, so be wise to get the names before leaving. Till’ next week….Grace and Peace be multiplied to you, Pamela.

Spillers, Fillers and Thrillers

2008-09-26T19:38:00.001-07:00

6/26/08
By: Pamela Nobles

One of the choice, bold plant selections used in many of my containers is the Ipomoea Batatas, which is better known as the Sweet Potato vine. This is not the edible variety of sweet potato, but an ornamental tuberous root that produces bold foliage and is quite colorful. This unique perennial is a rampant grower that produces sprawling vines with a trailing habit creating rigorous intertwining in hanging baskets, container pots, window boxes, and is sure to accentuate your flower beds as well. The fancy-leafed forms vary in size from 2 to 4 in. long, ranging in shape from heart shaped to deeply lobed. These plants are easy to grow and prolific with color choices that is sure to wet your appetite; Sweet Caroline, green yellow; Margarita, lime green; Sweet Caroline, red; Tricolor, predominantly green with white and pink edges. The Ipomoea is truly a spiller and filler to any mixture of plants for any container. Let me give you several ideas. Harmonious color is the foundation for contrasting forms by selecting the Purple fountain grass, ‘Blackie’ sweet potato vine, Verbena hybrid (pink), and a Persian Shield placed in a large pot. This combination will do well in a partially sunny area. Another combination shows versatility of the Kong Scarlet coleus standing out as the thriller connecting to a ‘Religious Radish', with its burgundy hues, then adding the contrasting ‘Chartreuse’ sweet potato vine as the spiller. Now add a Golden Creeping Jenny, all put into a pedestal container for a partial shade area and you have another spectacular container plant. You need to be aware that these plants attract some tiny round gold looking bugs that will chew little holes in the leaves, so you will need to select an insecticide that will work specifically for your needs. My expertise is not in the area of those pesky varmints, however, your nearby hardware store will be delighted to steer you in the right direction. I will continue with more on this topic next week. Till’ next time, Blessings unto you, Pamela.

Metal Wonders Continued from Last Week

2008-09-26T19:36:00.000-07:00

By: Pamela Nobles

6/19/2008

Last week I shared with you one of my trials with a metal plant container. So to continue in that vein, let me give you some more ideas that might catch your attention. Any metal object that can hold soil and provide drainage can be put into service. Locating recycled metal containers can be as simple as shopping curbside on trash day. Try shiny galvanized cans, flashy metallic buckets or you might want to utilize a giant metal ladle that can be hung from a tree that can hold a trailing plant or possibly a birdbath or bird feeder. For that matter, you may try an old salvage yard or at your next adventurous Rummage Sale for the unusual.

Maybe memories of Grandma’s old teakettle could be utilized, an old bicycle with a wire basket, a colander, an old washtub, or maybe an old worn out discarded chicken feeder that will start up a conversation with friends and family the next time you break bread together. By the way, I’m eyeing an old one row Coleman planter that a man close to my heart just might let me use. Potting soil, slow-release fertilizer, and plants are all you need to turn your containers into classy plant pots. Let me enlighten you on the fact that metal absorbs heat when exposed to sunlight, so your plants will appreciate the addition of water-absorbing crystals (available at many plant nurseries) to the soil. Be sure to drill drainage holes into the bottom of solid metal containers. When choosing perforated metal objects, such as old strainers or metal baskets, line them with cocoa fiber or sphagnum moss before filling them with potting soil.

Sun-loving herbs; succulents; and drought-resistant plants whether annuals or perennials, such as Lantana, Verbena, Portulaca (rose moss) are excellent plant choices for metal. Gray and silver foliage plants, such as Lamb’s-ear, Wormwood, Dusty Miller, or Common Sage are especially eye catching in gray containers.

Till next time, Grace and Peace be multiplied to you, Pamela

Metal Wonders

2008-09-26T19:30:00.001-07:00

6/12/08
By: Pamela Nobles

While there are many containers out there available for purchase for your special plants, there are probably some containers that many of you may have never considered that are right in your own back yard. That being said, I found one that really captured my attention. Being gifted with creativity in many areas, particularly with this container plant business I’m fascinated with any unusual items that might be used to place many of these plants in. Since I especially love my herbs I needed something special for them. After ardent convincing, my husband Glen approved of my wonderful idea so I began browsing through the barn where I soon found an old watering trough he had used for his livestock. This trough became my next experiment. My plan became a reality as I set out to gather pine cones from the adjacent lot next to the house. Several five gallon buckets, was what I planned to place in the bottom of this trough to hold the plants. Thinking this might work, I then proceeded to take the potting soil, which by the way turned out to take more than anticipated, filling it to roughly 5 inches below the top. With much anticipation and filled with adventurous thoughts, I was eager to see the end results. I began to place some of my herbs (Bee Balm, Oregano, Sage, Parsley and Orange Mint) in the prepared soil. With our hot summers and strong winds, the soil tends to become dryer requiring daily watering and that in itself can become tedious. Nevertheless, it was all quite rewarding. Then I began to notice the sinking of the soil and plants lower and lower until they finally dropped another 5 inches. I was initially very concerned. Suddenly, I was overwhelmed with joy, His joy unspeakable and full of His Glory. Laughter began to bubble up out of my belly. It was literally tears of joy that filled my heart at that moment with an experiment I will never forget. It was merely the pine cones settling under the soil. So keep that in mind for your next plant project, when you choose such a large container, by using more pine cones then letting it settle after watering the soil before planting. I will continue next week with ideas for plants using metal objects. Until next time, may Grace and peace be multiplied to you. Pamela.

The Show-Stopping Bougainvillea

2008-09-26T19:21:00.001-07:00

By: Pamela Nobles
June 5, 2008

Memories of this exuberant vine still capture my thoughts as I think back to my childhood years. We lived in a beautiful brick home on San Jose Blvd. in Jacksonville where I remember how very breathtaking it was to see this Bougainvillea meandering up the brick wall of my parent’s home. The sprawling, long arching branches held sprays of delicate raspberry-pink bracts that were absolutely show-stopping. Now if you were to ask my sisters, Jacque or Deborah, they might challenge me, we’re somewhat older now, with a magenta-red or purple-red, whichever, we girls looked forward to eyeing the beautiful display of those strikingly vivid, flower clusters growing rampantly up those walls even over the windows. I’m reminded of the last months of my mother’s rich life. She was bedridden at her home and in a hospital bed, where, my sister Deborah (and husband) stayed with her till she went to her eternal home. She turned the bed to face the huge windows where she could view and enjoy her Bougainvillea in her last days. The Bougainvillea was named for Louis Antoine de Bougainville, a French navigator who discovered the plant in 1768 in Brazil. The first specimen was brought to France in 1800, and then to England and beyond. So from these species have come numerous hybrids, from two-foot dwarf cultivars that enrich balconies and patios to rampant climbers that can exceed thirty feet. Bougainvilleas are versatile, exuberant subtropical and tropical vines that flower almost all year long in warm regions. They can be grown all year long in certain zones, however, in the colder climates they would need to be protected from the cold and frost by growing them in containers. However, as mentioned above, my mothers Bougainvillea came back each Spring due to the fact that she had lots of trees in her yard whereby, those leaves were used as a compost to cover the woody base to protect from the cold winters. Most Bougainvilleas have spiny thorns, but some of the newer varieties are nearly thornless or have such insignificant thorns that they are not a bother. The actual flowers are delicate, paper-thin bracts, which grow in clusters Colors of these magnificent flowers may be pure white, bold pinks, dark reds, orange, lavender, magenta and gold. There are many varieties of the Bougainvilleas such as Tahitian Dawn, Texas Dawn, Purple Queen, Don Mario, Oo-La-La, Camarillo, Scarlett O’hara, Yesterday, Today and Tomorrow. The last one mentioned lives up to its name with profuse bloomers that opens deep violet, turning to light violet, then white, and all in three days. Doesn’t that just inspire you to go out and purchase one of these? Some of these varieties may not be found in your local nurseries, so please call if you are interested and I’ll gladly share where you may obtain one of these beauties. Bougainvillea requires full sun, and regular but not too much water as they will cease flowering, even to losing leaves and wilting. To maximize flowering, you will need to prune the vines to promote new growth, just as He does us since He is the vine and we are the branches. Discarding the old branches will enhance the flowering to bear much more fruit, blossoms and awesome clusters making new stems. In the fall, again prune to shape by removing unwanted shoots. Vines can be trained to stand alone as a sprawling shrub, or allowed to grow naturally where it will quickly cover fences or climb up into trees. Soil tolerances; clay, sand; acidic; slightly alkaline; loam. Drought tolerance is high. Tip of the week: For your next outdoor gathering put together a unique centerpiece that will surely catch the eye of your friends & family and, too, you can snip & use these herbs in your meats and vegetables. Fill a terra-cotta bowl 13 inches wide by 4 ½ deep with potting soil and plants; two 4-inch pots each of lemon-lime thyme and a six-pack or two of common thyme. Before planting set a candle (light citrus scent) with a hurricane glass in the center. Til’ next time, blessings be multiplied to you, Pamela.

Water-Wise Gardens

2008-09-26T19:18:00.000-07:00

May 29, 2008
By: Pamela Nobles

Using water judiciously does not mean having less greenery, but it does mean putting more thought into plant selection and garden design. Fortunately, giving more consideration to what and where to plant can result in an even better garden than might be imagined. No longer are water-wise gardens considered lesser landscapes; these days gardeners know that the desire to reduce water usage can inspire fabulous plant combinations, year-round interest and gardens that people want to live in. Strategies that can lead to a beautiful – and water-conserving – landscape are three-fold: group plants with similar needs; use compost to help retain soil moisture; and use water judiciously. There are many plants that absolutely can be less work for the gardener with more compliments from your neighbors, friends and family. So for those people that don’t always have time with their busy schedules to water you can still come home from work after a long day and find your yard just as beautiful as the day before without all the fuss. After years of gardening, intense preparation of the soil, adding the needed nutrients for those plants that I surely thought would survive without water made me know that I needed to delve into this gardening more seriously after spending all that hard earned money. I’m one of those visionaries with a creative mind, so I’m always looking for ways to enhance the beauty of my yard whether it be a sunny or shady location. This also keeps me challenged, as well as, my husband and too, it means less area to mow! Living out of town in the country on one of those dusty roads during those dry seasons, can be a bit unsightly. However, the first area you’d see coming into my driveway is the mailbox as the house sits back off the road. So I set out to capture ‘the eye of the beholder’ by choosing to make a large oval garden area that would do just that! I chose the hardy, vigorous, sprawling Lantana (many varieties) and the Mexican Sage bush (both perennials) that were mulched with the proper nutrients where the water does not evaporate from the soil surface as quickly. Now there are many others to choose from, such as; the Buddleja (butterfly bush), Gaura bush, Coreopsis, Verbena, Russian Sage, Lavender, English ivy, Achillea (Yarrow), Bee Balm, Coral Bells (Huechera), Hosta to name a few where you can design and landscape an area close to the home, along the driveway, or around some of your favorite trees. Now let me say this, don’t make the mistake of thinking that just because the above mentioned plants are considered "drought tolerant plants" means they can survive without water. No plant can survive without getting them established first. Give them a few weeks to get acclimated to the soil by saturating those thirsty root systems with a drink of water. Sun on windy days will dry out and scorch leaves, whereas plants may easily tolerate the same sun without the winds. Either way when the heat index is high you can be sure that it will zap the moisture out of the plants much quicker. Also, if you choose to put these plants in containers, whether it be terra cotta, plastic, wood, or wrought iron using sphagnum moss, they will require watering more frequently due to evaporation. There are great benefits to gardening in containers because you have the ability to move them around and be versatile. Tip of the week: Cover the holes of your container with window screen wire to prevent your soil from escaping through when watering. If I can be of any help to you, please feel free to call me at 592.2522. Til next time blessings be multiplied to you, Pamela